I had written a sharp critique of this bar. I indulged myself, exaggerating the criticism, because I don’t often have occasion to be dramatic about Ecuadorian chocolate. Jicama is a slightly sweet tuber also called yam-bean, and I found it gives the bar an unpleasant turn reminiscent of turnip.
This Wiñak chocolate comes from cacao harvested by Kichwa communities in the Sumaco reserve, inside the Napo Galeras national park.
Wayta offers a powerful chocolate here, with intense floral and woody aromas and a light but present bitterness, while an acidity emerges at the end. The hierba luisa — the equivalent of lemongrass — is present in the background, supporting certain cocoa notes without taking over. It’s refreshing because lemongrass chocolates often overemphasize the plant; here the balance is better respected and allows appreciation of the nuances of fine aroma cacao.
What a strange chocolate. It begins with a somewhat burnt, unpromising note and a sandy texture somewhat like a maple candy. But as it develops, notes of jasmine, violet and incense fill the mouth, to the point where it’s hard to believe no flavor was added. A slight sweet-butter flavor accompanies everything.
This is a very mild chocolate whose flavor takes its time to express itself. You need to let it melt to begin sensing the nuances. You can find the lightness and finesse of Kallari’s Sacha cacao, accompanied by a touch of hot pepper — which primarily lends flavor rather than heat. The taste lingers on the palate long after tasting, providing a comforting presence.